Koh Tao Diving and Island Life

Koh Tao in Thailand is one of the world’s most famous places to learn to dive, with warm water, cheap courses and easy dive sites. I’d argue that the diving isn’t as world-class as other places nearby (its a bit to crowded to be honest), but what really makes Koh Tao special is the island itself – great beaches, a lively backpacker scene and the kind of relaxed atmosphere that makes people never leave.

It’s real highlight is the Sai Ri Beach backpacker vibe – I can’t think of too many places that have that wonderful combo of chilled + party ✅, sunset views ✅, cheap + high end options ✅, and without being ruined by cars and mopeds ✅. They’ve really nailed it.

Plus, taking a moped round the very accessible island to a lot of the hidden spots is one of the best moped experiences in SE Asia.

If you drop your expectations of it being “world class diving”, and enjoy it for a chilled island getaway that offers beautiful scenery and ease of turning the on/off switch for partying, it’s a great little trip.

 

Koh Tao Diving and Island Life - east coast Ao Tanote Beach

Sailing the Komodo Islands in November

The Komodo Islands are best known for the Komodo Dragons, and rightly so, because seeing these awesome creatures in their natural habitat while walking across the islands is a wonderful experience.  But it’s actually the islands themselves that are the real star – jagged savannah-covered mountains meet bright white sand beaches across 30 islands surrounded by gorgeous turquoise waters filled with manta rays . . . indeed, rather appealing! . . . one of the highlights of all of South East Asia . . . and a Wow Wow Wow 🌟🌟🌟 experience.

 

Sailing the Komodo Islands - view from Kelor Island's short walk up the hill for paradise-style views

 

The trick though is how best to do it – especially when it comes to what kind of boat (day trip / local boat / snorkelling trip / diving trip / luxury end) and the time of year (dry season is generally April – November, with June-August and December peak months).  I’ve visited twice now – once in early November 2015 and once in mid March 2025:

 

  • November 2015 was a real 🌟🌟🌟 experience as it was right at the end of the dry season when the vegetation is parched, and the crowds were minimal because it is before the December spike.  We went with a local boat from Labuan Bajo (the main hub you will fly into) for 3 days / 2 nights at fraction of the normal price
  • March 2025 was fun but more like a 🌟 experience because although the landscape was gorgeously green, seas calming, and underwater visibility great, it felt super busy as the operators ramp up for the coming dry season and the cluster of holiday at that time.  This was despite us going with a far more high end snorkelling boat for 3 days / 2 nights.

 

So, after two visits, I’m sharing some of my tips below on how to make this a Wow Wow Wow 🌟🌟🌟 experience.

 

Flores Indonesia Road Trip – Komodo to Riung via the Trans-Flores Highway

The further east you go through Indonesia, the less developed everything becomes. You go Java → Bali → Lombok → Komodo… and then suddenly you’re properly off the beaten track.

The vast majority of people haven’t heard of the likes of Western Nusa Tengara, Flores (Eastern Nusa Tengara), Sumba or the Alor Archipelago that continue far to the east … which of course makes it all that much more appealing for a real adventure.

In March 2025 we hired a driver and headed from Komodo along the Trans Flores highway seeing volcanos, lush jungle, empty roads, traditional villages and the extraordinary Seventeen Islands Marine Park along the way

But the real highlight was just how unspoilt it all felt. Travelling through South East Asia can feel like a tourism conveyor belt at times, but this was proper travelling again.

 

Flores Indonesia Road Trip – Komodo to Riung via the Trans-Flores Highway.  Boat trip through the Seventeen Islands National Marine Park on Flores, Indonesia

 

The Secret Gilis, Lombok

 

The Secret Gilis are a group of small islands off the southwest coast of Lombok, Indonesia.  Just as pretty as the famous Gili Islands near Bali, but far quieter, they’re perfect for a relaxed island break with white sand beaches, snorkelling, diving and no crowds.  They’re especially easy to visit if you’re staying in Kuta Lombok.

 

South Lombok Beaches – Exploring by moped

South Lombok has some of the best beaches in Indonesia, and the best way to explore them is by scooter from Kuta Lombok. The south coast is full of white sand bays, surf beaches, dramatic cliffs and quiet viewpoints, and you can easily spend several days exploring different beaches along this stretch of coastline.

Lombok tends to take something like the third visit to this part of SE Asia for it to make it onto an itinerary, with Bali being people’s natural focus.   But it’s development is in that nice sweet spot between Bali’s-uber-chic-meets-terrible-traffic-and-overly-commercialised point, and real Indonesia.

You’ve got cracking restaurants, nice villas, a genuinely chilled out surfer vibe.  Plus a string of beaches nearby that are more stunning than anything in Bali – Bali, contrary to popular belief, doesn’t have great beaches – and far, far quieter.

The simple drive along the road was one of my favourite experiences in all of Indonesia.

 

Exploring Lombok's Southern Beaches on a moped - Tanjung Aan Beach

 

Jaisalmer and camel desert safari

Jaisalmer, in the Rajasthan desert of northwest India, is one of the most unique cities in India – a giant golden fort rising out of the Thar Desert, filled with havelis, temples and narrow streets; and with an intricacy in the carvings that are as stunning as they are blase with their lack of protection. But the real highlight of Jaisalmer is heading out into the desert on a camel safari and sleeping under the stars.

The combination evokes enough exotic desert mystery to firmly lock it in for any Rajasthan itinerary.

The main problem though is the rampant commercialism and general mayhem that joins it from what is modern-day India, and changes the experience from a potential ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ to a ⭐️⭐️.

That being said, it’s totally worth it if in Rajasthan and I’ve listed some tips below to help you get the most out of the experience.

 

Jaisalmer and camel desert safari

 

Udaipur Lake Palace – India’s Most Romantic City

Udaipur is often called the most romantic city in India, and it lives up to the hype.  The stunning white Lake Palace sitting in the middle of Lake Pichola, surrounded by the Aravalli Hills, creates one of the most beautiful city settings in the Asia.  But it’s the relaxed atmosphere, rooftop restaurants and lakeside views that make it a special place to spend a few days.

Strong management regarding the use of the lake and buildings nearby, mean that it isn’t as mental as other parts of India.  The water is pretty clear, you can walk around the lakeside without rubbish everywhere, and generally find yourself being able to relax, which can be hard elsewhere in the country. 

Along with Jodhpur (see Jodphur’s Blue City and the spectacular Mehrangarh Fort)  and the Taj Mahal (see The Taj Mahal), this is one of the highlights of India and, if first time in the country, aim for these 3.

 

Udaipur Lake Palace – India’s Most Romantic City. Views from Karna Mata viewpoint

 

Jodphur’s Blue City and Mehrangarh Fort

The view of the bright white Jaswant Thada memorial, with Mehrangarh Fort rising above the blue city of Jodhpur behind it, is one of the most dramatic views anywhere in the world.

Once you’ve put it on your must-see-list and actually made the trip to Jodphur, you won’t be disappointed. The views, the blue city, and the Rajasthan desert atmosphere combine to make this, in my opinion, the #1 Wow experience in India.

But this is India after all, and the mayhem can quickly sap your energy if you’re not careful.  So I’ve listed top tips below for how you can get the best out of it.

 

 

Jodphur's Blue City and Mehrangarh Fort. Best views in town from the Castle View Heritage Haveli

 

 

India’s Golden Triangle – getting the most out of it

The Golden Triangle is the classic travel route in northern India linking Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. The three cities form a rough triangle on the map and are all within about 200–250km (125–155 miles) of each other, making it one of the easiest multi-stop trips in India.

  • Delhi – The capital and main international gateway
  • Agra – Home of the Taj Mahal
  • Jaipur – The Pink City and gateway to Rajasthan

Because the distances are relatively short, the Golden Triangle can be done fairly quickly via a relaxed week-long itinerary or a rapid 4/5 days, and it works well as a first introduction to India.

But . . . if you’re coming all this way, you really need to understand one thing: the Golden Triangle classic itinerary has flaws and should be amplified to turn it from “Worth it” to “mega wow” experience.  

The below are the tips for how to do this.

 

 

Tip #1 – minimise time in Delhi

 

You will naturally fly into Delhi, but don’t spend too much time there.  A tour of Old Delhi, wandering the Red Fort and an evening in a Haveli are all worth it, but other than that it is a giant polluted Indian city.  One night max, or, ideally none at all.  For extra details, see the entry on Delhi

Wow Rating – GASH

 

The wide open courtyard of Delhi's Jama Masjid Mosque in late afternoon before prayers

The wide open courtyard of Delhi’s Jama Masjid Mosque in late afternoon before prayers

 

 

Tip #2 The Taj Mahal lives up to the hype – don’t skip

 

The Taj Mahal in Agra is a must and lives up to the hype.  One of the 7 Wonders of the World described as “a tear drop on the edge of eternity”, you will find yourself staring at it for hours, happily soaking up its perfect geometrical beauty.  Cheesy indeed, but I surprised myself by just how much I enjoyed just staring at it.  See the individual review The Taj Mahal

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

 

The Taj Mahal - majestic 

The Taj Mahal – majestic 

 

 

Tip #3 Take one of two stops between Agra and Jaipur

 

The Chand Bawdi Step-well – the world’s deepest step-well at 30m / 100ft, 3500 steps across 13 stories and it is truly magnificent to view.

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️⭐️

 

The Chand Bawdi Step-well - the world's deepest Step-well, Jaipur India

The Chand Bawdi Step-well – the world’s deepest Step-well

 

 

Fatehphur Sikri – the ghost city of what was the former capital of the Mughal Empire.  History buff or not, its fab.  Extra details – Seeing the abandoned former Mughal capital at Fatehphur Sikri

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️

 

One of the courtyards of Fatehphur Sikri, India

One of the courtyards of Fatehphur Sikri – photo doesn’t do it justice

 

 

Tip #4 – Spend only a short time in Jaipur or skip altogether

The Amber Fort is magnificent – especially when viewing from the nearby Jaigarh Fort – and parts of the Pink City itself are charming.  But Jaipur can be a bit of let down as it is super dirty, mega busy and with little in terms of that bright pink city-vibe you were likely expecting.   Deprioritise behind Rajasthan’s real highlights. See the individual review – The pink city of Jaipur

Wow Rating – GASH

 

Jaipur's Hawa Mahal, Jaipur India

Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal – iconic and aligns with many of the ornate buildings within the Pink City itself (what is left of it)

 

 

Tip #5 Push your itinerary to see the real Rajasthan highlights

 

Other than the Taj Mahal, the real highlights sit outside of The Golden Triangle and in the real jewel in the crown of India – Rajasthan.  They are further away but push your itinerary as hard as possible to accomodate.

 

 

Jodphur’s Blue City and the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort

That view of the fort is one of the most dramatic in all of India, and is a real wow, especially when having dinner in the Old Town overlooking it.  Combined with beautifully winding streets of the Blue City and Jodphur’s the exotic vibe of the Rajasthan desert, this one of the unmissable highlights of India and is in a different league to Jaipur.  See the individual review hereViewing the Jodphur’s Blue City from the spectacular Mehrangarh Fort.

Distance from Jaipur: 4 hour train / 5 hour drive from Jaipur

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Views of the Jodphur's Mehrangarh Fort and Blue City from the Castle View Heritage Haveli, India

Views of the Jodphur’s Mehrangarh Fort and Blue City from the Castle View Heritage Haveli

 

Udaiphur’s Lakeside Palaces

Often labelled as “the most romantic spot on the continent of India”, and it lives up to the hype.  The stunning white Taj Lake Palace sitting in the middle of peaceful Lake Nichola, surrounded by the mountains of the Aravalli Range crowns the overall view, but it is the tranquility that makes it so appealing, and so unusual for India. See The Lakeside and Palaces of Udaipur.

Distance from Jaipur: 6 hour train / 6 hour drive from Jaipur

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️⭐️

 

Views of the lake from the Oberoi Hotel at lunchtime, Udaipur

Views of Udaipur’s lake from the Oberoi Hotel at lunchtime

 

 

Jaisalmer’s sand fort and desert camel riding

A giant sandcastle with 99 bastions rising from the central desert of Rajasthan, magnificent havelis contained within and without, tiny narrow lanes to get lost in and with an intricacy in the carvings throughout that are as stunning as they are blase with their lack of protection.  When you throw in one of the overnight desert camel treks, you’ve got an experience that evokes enough exotic desert mystery to firmly lock it in for any Rajasthan itinerary.  See Jaisalmer and riding camels in the desert.

Distance from Jaipur: 10 hour train / 11 hour drive from Jaipur

Wow Rating – ⭐️⭐️

 

Camel overnight desert safari in the Thar desert just outside of Jaisalmer, India

Camel overnight desert safari in the Thar desert just outside of Jaisalmer 

 

 

Tip #6 – do a cooking class

There is so much to learn about Indian cuisine and we really enjoyed it as a change to the classic sight seeing.  You can do it in any of the above places.  We did it in Jaipur and I would highly recommend Chef Lokesh who you can easily find online, or direct on +91 99280 97288.  One of the highlights of our overall trip . . . and almost justified being in Jaipur!

 

Indian cooking class in Jaipur with Chef Lokesh

Indian cooking class in Jaipur with Chef Lokesh

 

 

Tip #7 – how to approach a first-time trip to India

 

India is one of the richest countries on the planet for sheer depth in food, languages, people, religions, landscapes and wow.  Truly like a continent on its own.  But in equal measure it can be daunting and exhausting for first-time travellers.

After travelling now 10+ times to this wonderful country and spending something like 5 months there, these are the tips I share with those on my group:

Try to go with the flow – even for those very well travelled, India can be hectic.  Just let the Indians get on with what they are doing in their own way and try not to let it annoy you . . . its all part of the experience.  Getting your boarding passed 7 times at the airport – just smile.  Being told you can’t have 2 “gravy curries” on a weekday at lunch – just give a head wobble.  It’s India, its how they do things.

Wash your hands before eating.  We’ve all heard of Delhi belly – your gut is most likely not ready for what Indians eat on a daily basis and have developed cast-iron stomaches for.  In all the trips I’ve made to India, and all the friends that have joined me for them, none of us got Delhi belly and the key reasons is simply washing hands.

Start conversations with Indians.  Despite the magnificent palaces etc, the real highlight of India are the people.  They (mostly) speak English, have a strong interest in people visiting their country and tend to have a far lower initial barrier to starting a chat than the rest of Asia. It will add to your experience, I promise.

Give tips when you first get to your hotel.  Its something very few people do, doesn’t need much (R100 – R200 / US$1 – US$2) but will go a huge way to them making your stay magical.

 

 

Jaipur and the Amber Fort – The Pink City of Rajasthan

Jaipur is part of India’s classical Golden Triangle route and represents the natural gateway into the gem that is the state of Rajasthan.  For sure its sort of fun walking through the chaotic pink city with monkeys jumping everywhere and visiting in particular the magnificent nearby Amber Fort.

But, and I’ve been visited twice now, I would honestly suggest missing it as part of your Rajasthan itinerary.  The city itself is super dirty, mega busy and with little in terms of that bright pink city-vibe you’re expecting.  The fort is indeed magnificent, but its only at best on par with what you will see in the likes of Jodphur, Udaipur and Jaisalmer that often make up a Rajhastan itinerary.

I’ve listed below which destinations to prioritise.  But if you do visit, I’ve added some tips as well.

 

Jaipur and the Amber Fort - dancers in the evening at