Jebel Shams is regularly listed as one of the highlights of Oman, and rightly so – the view down into the immense Wadi Ghul is impressive and justifies its tag as the “Grand Canyon of Arabia”. You’ve also got the drive up there with a spectacular mountain landscape that makes it very hard not to stop regularly for photos.
There’s a lot of writing about carpet sellers and that sort of stuff, but they’re really only a very minor part of the experience. In reality it’s all about looking over the canyon sides and walking deep into the canyon on the gorgeous Balcony Walk and, if you have a spare day, hiking up to the peak of Jebel Shams itself (3009m / 9872ft).
Top tip #1 – its all about the Wadi Ghul canyon and the Balcony Walk. The maps and general tips for the place can be super confusing. What you are basically looking to do is look over the edge in the Wadi Ghul canyon (Jebel Shams View Point 3 is great for this) and walk the Balcony Walk (aka W6) which is a 1.5-2.5 hour walk (there and back) along a light to moderate slope that starts near the wide point of the canyon (Balcony Walk Guesthouse) and ends at an abandoned village at one of the end points of the canyon (very clearly signposted). Even if you’re not keen on the full walk, it’s still worth just walking the first 15mins or so as that has some of the best views.
Top tip #2 – you can drive up to the Jebel Shams plateau without a 4WD. For sure it’s easier in the 4WD, but as long as you are a confident driver and it isn’t raining you will be fine. You’ll have maybe 20 / 30mins of unpaved road, with only a couple of sections you’ll need to pay attention to.
Where to stay – I stayed at the Sama Heights Resort, which was really nice and fit in perfectly with the surroundings. It’s only a 5min drive or so to the first views of the canyon
Ras Al Jinz is a beach and wildlife centre that is at the far eastern Oman end of the Arabian Peninsula and is an important protected site for the Green Turtle species to lay their eggs. What these turtles go through in their migrations and nesting techniques to secure the next generation is truly mind-blowing, and in seeing the small hatchlings making their way back to the ocean at such a small size next to the giant mothers is actually quite emotional . . .
. . . but the problem with this experience is how it is managed, which feels like all the bad aspects of mass tourism. You’re grouped with fellow tourists all at the same time around 9pm – there were around 5 groups of 25 when I visited. You all walk the 20mins to the beach together. All wait right near each other to approach a turtle. All stumble around in the dark not quite knowing where you are going for around 30mins. And then all walk back 20mins to the visitor centre. The format wouldn’t be so bad if the guides had a bit of passion because tourists understand the restrictions of no light and the need to not disturb the turtles, but they all tend to have that more-bothered-about-their-mobile-phone-and-guests-are-a-bit-of-a-nuisance attitude that is unfortunately all too common in the Middle East.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s quite funny as you collectively laugh at how silly the whole thing is. And, you do get to see glimpses of the turtles digging themselves in, laying eggs and hatchlings at this time of year. But its just not worth the long drive there. Your time could be far better spent in the wonderful red deserts or mountains of Oman
If determined to go, biggest tip – stay at the Turtle Guest House rather than the Turtle Reserve. 30% of the price, nice enough and they also organise your tour for you.
Wadi Shab is a large gorge that makes its way from the Eastern Hajar Mountains to meet the Arabian Sea. Purely for looking at it is beautiful – steep arid dramatic sides rising above and crystal clear turquoise water rushing through the streams and irrigation channels that cross all through the gorge (and are actually UNESCO World Heritage sites on their own). But, the main reason the trip is so cool and worth the visit is the mini adventure of hiking and then swimming through the warm water of the gorge to find the partly submerged cave with small waterfall at the end. Great fun.
Tips
Top tip – get there early
I arrived at 745am and had the walk and swim into the gorge completely to myself, which was magical. The way back I counted maybe 50 people passing me, which would have been a very different vibe and suggests that groups arrive around 9am. The small boats that transport you the first 2-3 mins across the water start at 7am (1 Omani Rial / USD2.5), so you can start anytime from then.
How much time is needed
The guides say 4 hours, but I think you only need 2-3 hours – 45mins to walk to the start of swim, 30mins for the swim (wading / swimming / standing – not all swimming!), and then a bit shorter on the way back. I was back on the small boats after 2 hours and wasn’t at all rushing.
What to bring
Because the swim is at the end, I reckon you could get by without a dry bag or water shoes because you can just leave your dry stuff at the start of the swim. That being said, the adventure feel of taking the dry bag with me through the swim was fun.
The gap into the partly submerged cave at the end is very small!
I turned up, on my own, not knowing there was a cave or a small gap – quite the moment deciding to go for it!
You don’t need a guide
It’s a very straightforward route and not really worth the OR25 / USD65.
Where to stay
Wadi Shab Resort was basic (most places are in Oman) but really nice with immediate access to the pebble beach where you can spot sea turtles.
As the natural entry point for the vast majority of trips to Oman, Muscat is a nice spot for a day or so to rest before or after a long flight. The walk by the Corniche with its fish market and Mutrah Souk; the walk along the pretty beaches where many of the nice hotels are based; and a trip to the National Museum to learn some of Oman’s history are all great for a couple of hours or so . . . but I wouldn’t suggest really any amore than that if it means sacrificing time in the other Omani highlights.
If have a day, I’d aim for:
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- Morning – Corniche. A morning walking the short distance along the Corniche where you start at the fish market and end at the Mutrah Souk. Have lunch there – Bait Al Luban (Omani) and La Brasserie (International) were nice.
- Early afternoon – Old Muscat. Take a cab (don’t, as the Lonely Planet advises, walk – its a nice view of the water but its a dull 1 hour walk in the heat by a road) to the “Old Muscat” (which feels a little like a Disney set). There have a look at the Sultan’s Palace and give yourself 1-2 hours in the National Museum to see.
- Late afternoon – beaches for sunsets. A walk along one of the many lovely beaches for the sunrise. We stayed at the W Hotel, which was on a great beach, with nice restaurants nearby (top floor bar or W was nice, as was the traditional Omani Ubhar Restaurant nearby), and the Opera House right next to it is also worth checking out.
Most people visit El Nido for the stunning Bacuit Archipelago, or for the sensational boat trips through the island chains to Coron – see Island hopping Coron to El Nido with Tao Philippines for one of the most wow experiences in all of SE Asia.
These are for sure amazing, but another option is to rent a moped and ride the loop around the El Nido peninsular for something that is a little simpler, cheaper and quieter.
There’s something so fun and adventurous about leaving the busy touristy town of El Nido and within 20 minutes being in what feels like a completely different world – quiet roads, real Filipino villages with no tourist facilities, near-empty beaches and views that make you wonder why so few people come out here. Really worth it.
In a nutshell:
- Best done by moped or scooter
- Easy 2hr circular route around the peninsula
- Highlights: Nacpan Beach, quiet beaches, local villages
- Much quieter than island hopping tours
- Can be done in a day
- Roads mostly good, but some rough sections
The Bacuit Archipelago is seen as one of the highlights of the Philippines – hundreds of islands with huge jagged limestone sides looking like something from the Lost World often opening up to reveal a turquoise coloured lagoon or perfect white sandy beach.
Most people go by a tour to check these spots out, but its also worth considering doing some diving around here – you still get to have the experience of taking a boat through the beautiful islands, but with some diving also included. Only things you won’t see are the lagoons and spend time chilling on a beach.
Top tips:
- Make sure you dive the Tunnel on Helicopter Island – you know that scene at the beginning of the Little Mermaid when she’s in her cave? Yep, that’s it. A 40m / 130ft long tunnel that runs through Helicopter Island, has two entrances and a large wide cave in the middle cave. It also has the benefit of some great micro things to see – variety of slugs and even Mandarin Fish.
- South Miniloc Dive is also great – this is actually the more famous dive. There is a huge Cabbage Coral Garden (more impressive than is sounds) and thousands of Yellow Snappers.
- I went with Submariner Diving Centre and would recommend
- Where to stay – El Nido has way more options than the likes of Coron, but still light on mid range (or at least very few if don’t book ahead). I’d actually recommend The Outpost Beach Hostel – it’s a party hostel, so be prepared for that, but it more than makes up for it with its sensational views out to the archipelago.
- When to go – for weather, you ideally want November to May as this is when it’s driest in Palawan. For visibility – lower your expectations. The sensational 80+ visibility to the east of Palawan in places like Tubbataha Reef is not found in El Nido. But, it is by no means restrictive and aiming for April – May time will see a clear improvement.
EXTRA TIP – the real mega wow experience round here is Island hopping Coron to El Nido with Tao Philippines. It is the best the Philippines has to offer – perfect islands and beaches, plus wonderfully done by the local people living there. A real ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️. Don’t visit Palawan without doing this.
Malaga gets a bit of an unfair reputation because of its association with the soulless and tacky Costa del Sol nearby and, to be fair, it doesn’t help itself that its right next to an industrial port!
But the central area in amongst the beautiful Cathedral and historic Alcazaba Castle and Roman Amphitheatre is a pleasant centre white marble-floored spot crammed in with a great range of bars and restaurants. Granted, its not one of the highlights of the wonderful Andalusia, but its not too bad for an evening stop over before you fly out from what is the main airport for the area as part of a 10 day itinerary for Andalucia.
Top tip – try the Hammam Al-Andalus baths right in the city centre. Beautiful setting and what feels like effortlessly chilled vibe. Some of the best baths I’ve been to in the world.
Ronda is all about the dramatic gorge and the beautiful white old town built around it. When you throw in Spain’s oldest bull ring, this is a real wow destination in its own right, and not just a half-day stop from the likes of Seville and Malaga. When you consider also that it can make up part of the sensational White Towns of Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema route, then Ronda hits mega wow territory.
Top tip #1 – if have a car, drive through nearby Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema. Ronda is beautiful, for sure, but it is just one of many stunning white hilltop towns in this part of Andalucia on the Ronda to Arcos de la Fontera route. The most beautiful part of Spain, one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen in all of Europe and with far less tourists than in Ronda. See the full travel entry here –Driving through the White Towns of Parque Natural Sierra Grazalema.
Tip #2 – walk through the valley to the west of Ronda as part of a circular route that gives you great views of the Bridge. Its a fairly simple route that you can start from anywhere, is around 6km / 3.75miles so takes only about 1.5 hours with only one moderately steep part, gives the best views of the gorge and allows you to wander through the vineyards for a very different feel. Use google maps – start at the bridge- then walk through the pretty Old Town to Mirador del Viento for amazing views – then to Mirador La Hoya del Tajo for further great views – then walk through the vineyards to Mirador de los Pinos – then all the way along the ridge to the views from Hotel Catalonia Reina – and then back to the central area with the bridge.
Tip #3 – or something more unusual, try the Bodega Garcia Hidalgo vineyard. Only 5km from town, run by a local family and about as genuine a vineyard tour you can get.
Tip #4 – where to stay. We stayed at the Hotel Catalonia Reina which has sensational views of the nearby mountains and valleys from its wide garden balcony, but is a bit overpriced for the rooms you get. I don’t think it really matters where you stay as everything is so close in Ronda.
Tip #5 – where to eat. La Abaceria Ronda did great tapas. For drinks, give the Hotel Catalonia Reina’s outside area a go for great views and not rammed.
Tarifa’s beaches are some of Spain’s finest. Stretching all the way from Tarifa town, the most southern point of Continental Europe, westwards to Cadiz are long, wide, fine-sand beaches that are enhanced with the dramatic backdrops of mountains behind. Whilst they can get crowded in the weekends, the sheer number and size of the beaches means that there will always be room to find a spot away from the crowds.
Three top tips:
- Top beach to visit is Playa de Bolonia. The beach itself is super pretty, with its huge Bolonia Sand Dune to the west and various water inlets all along the beach that give that exotic feel. But it also has the added benefit of having the dramatic views of the mountains nearby, and, for those ancient history fans, the has the former Roman town of Baelo Claudia right on the beach, complete with its surprisingly well maintained old forum and amphitheater, plus a visitor centre that does a good job of setting the context. Extra tip – if eating in Playa de Bolonia, there are some great restaurants right on the beach, but be sure to book ahead at the weekends.
- Visit Zahara de los Atunes beach for the drive through the wind farm. I know it sounds a bit dull, but the huge wind farms in this part of Andalucia have been designed to fit in superbly well to the local geography and offer a really dramatic drive as you make your way from the highway to Zahara. Zahara also offers a lot more food options than some of the other beaches and, of course, has the huge beach.
- Tarifa town itself is worth a visit. It’s nowhere near as pretty or dramatic as the likes of Vejer de la Fontera or the various towns dotted throughout Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema, but it does have a nice narrow-street old town centre to walk through, with the castle to explore and surprisingly close views of Morocco across the Straight. It also has its own long beach stretching from the town to around 5km / 3miles to the west, which is a good option is you don’t have your own car to make it to the other beaches.
Cadiz is the dirtier version of Seville that also lacks the stellar individual attractions. For sure, its good fun to get lost in amongst what is supposed to be Europe’s oldest city streets and to look out at the beaches and lighthouses from the sea wall views, but Andalusia has some true gems that should rank above Cadiz in priority for your trip.
If do go though (he writes after scathingly criticising the place!), it’s a pleasant afternoon getting lost walking through the Old City, having some sherry overlooking the Plaza de San Juan de Dios and checking out the beaches at the far west end of the Peninsular.
