I love the centre and north of Bali – yes the south is to an extent now “ruined” via the overcrowding and commercialisation – but the rest is a different story . . . and I dare suggest “what Bali used to be”.
Dense jungle hiding vibrantly green rice terraces, old Hindu temples, a chilled out Balinese hippy-yoga-heart-rate-so-low-you’re practically-dead vibe. Yet all coupled with world class restaurants and accommodation. Closest thing you can get to the (sophisticated) Jungle Book, and Ubud is the centre of it.
I’ve been 4 times now, far from an expert, but a few basic tips:
- Don’t try to squeeze Ubud into a day of a Bali itinerary – you need to at least overnight. Its about the relaxed vibe, not a car ride 2 hours there and 2 hours back from Denpasar and cramming in some rice terrace views.
- Ubud Town itself’s main street (Jl Raya Ubud) can be Denpasar-style busy – avoid by either branching down the side streets such as Jl Goutama Sel asap (just 20m / 50ft or so can make a huge difference) or just avoiding Ubud Town altogether.
- For walks to see the jungle and grab food – the Campuhan Ridge Walk is worth doing and easily walked from Ubud main town; the paddy fields to the west of the area by the Huma Cafe is a fun walk; probably the classic one is the Tegalalang Rice Terrace but can be busy.
- Some restaurant recommendations – the Herb Library was great for healthy lunch; Nusantara by Locavore Group for wow; Huma Cafe for something easy out of town; Sayan House for amazing location with views over the valley
- For something special – visit Locavore NXT. 20 course tasting menu, all locally sourced, all housed within their labyrinth grounds, and one of the most wow food experiences I’ve had. US$120 for the menu, plus US$40-US$90 for drinks pairing
- Where to stay – loved Villa Kalisha, but its completely villa availability-dependant and you need to do a bit of scanning
- Also consider a bit further away in somewhere like Sideman – greener, quieter.