Sunsets - Chasing the Wow

Jaisalmer and camel desert safari

Jaisalmer, in the Rajasthan desert of northwest India, is one of the most unique cities in India – a giant golden fort rising out of the Thar Desert, filled with havelis, temples and narrow streets; and with an intricacy in the carvings that are as stunning as they are blase with their lack of protection. But the real highlight of Jaisalmer is heading out into the desert on a camel safari and sleeping under the stars.

The combination evokes enough exotic desert mystery to firmly lock it in for any Rajasthan itinerary.

The main problem though is the rampant commercialism and general mayhem that joins it from what is modern-day India, and changes the experience from a potential ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ to a ⭐️⭐️.

That being said, it’s totally worth it if in Rajasthan and I’ve listed some tips below to help you get the most out of the experience.

Goa

Not a big fan of Goa. It was probably gorgeous 40 years ago with its west facing beaches, Portuguese influence and tropical vibe. But, India being India, it’s taken the magical feel out of it and replaced with the typical mayhem and dirtiness unfortunately often found elsewhere in the country.

If looking for beautiful beaches and pleasant vibe, I would suggest the extra journey to South East Asia makes more sense. That being said, if in India and not too far from Goa, it is still a comparatively pleasant break from the 10/10 mayhem everywhere else and these are my tips:

Stay at Ashvam. Nice beach, a bit quieter and easy access to the other spots.

The Anjuna Flea Market right next to Anjuna Beach is worth checking out. Beautiful setting.

Visit the Panaji Old Town – the old town area around Church Square and along the Rio de Ourem of Panaji is a nice combo of Portuguese and Indian styles, with some nice restaurants. But, again, it’s a case of 10/10 potential often hitting 1/10 execution.

The Old Churches and grounds of Old Goa (5km to the east of Panaji) are worth a visit and UNESCO World Heritage listed.

Western Madagascar Adventure – Tsingy, Baobabs and Lemurs

The journey from the small town of Morondava north into the wilderness towards Bemaraha National Park and the Tsingy is a real adventure, and the highlight of a trip to Madagascar.

You crawl along some of the worst roads in the country – sometimes in the world – cross wide tropical rivers on small ferries, and slowly make your way deeper and deeper into one of the least developed and most remote parts of Africa. Along the way you see the famous baobabs, remote villages, and some of the best places in Madagascar to see lemurs. And at the end of it all, you reach the extraordinary Tsingy – vast forests of sharp limestone pinnacles and a UNESCO World Heritage site that looks like nowhere else on Earth.

This is not easy travel. Transport takes forever, plans change, you are heavily reliant on local guides, and there is often no WiFi, limited electricity and very little sense of control over the schedule. It really does feel like stepping back in time.

But that’s exactly what makes it so good. This is proper adventure travel. If you are willing to put up with the discomfort and the long days of travel, this is 100% worth it and is, in my view, the best and most memorable part of Madagascar.

Need to do a bit of prep before you go, so I’ve listed out key tips in the section below.

A week in Cape Town

Hard not to be blown away by a first time visit to Cape Town – it just has so much going for it.

✅ The setting is gob-smackingly beautiful – Rio de Janeiro, Vancouver, Hong Kong, Sydney are the only cities that come close.

✅ The cultural-significance of places like Robben Island.

✅ World-class outdoor activities like hiking up Table Mountain and Kelp Diving.

✅ Drives to the Cape of Good Hope and experiencing the nearby stunning winelands are world-class experiences on their own.

✅ The people are some of the friendliest (and cheekiest!) you will meet.

✅ And the food might just be up there with France and Japan as the best in the world.

Even with all of the wonders that South Africa has to offer, Cape Town and its surrounding area is still the jewel in the crown and gets the highest Wow Factor score ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️

Namibia Road Trip Itinerary – Driving Through Namibia’s Highlights

Namibia is one of the best self-drive trips in the world. Huge empty landscapes, good roads, very few people, and a constant run of deserts, wildlife and big scenery.

The classic route takes you from the giant red dunes of Sossusvlei, up the Skeleton Coast, into the wild landscapes of Damaraland and across Etosha for safari.

It’s an easy country to drive in, the distances are big but the roads are good, and the sense of space and freedom is what makes this trip so memorable.

In a nutshell:

One of the best road trips in the world – deserts, wildlife and huge empty landscapes
Easy and safe to self-drive – 4WD c.US$120 per day, but can do in a 2WD for US$35 per day
The red deserts of Sossusvlei and the self-safari to see the animals in Etosha are the highlights
Could be done in 7 days, but tiring. 10 days better.
Option to combine with Botswana for the Okavango Delta and Kalahari if you can.

The red desert dunes of Sossusvlei

The Namib desert is the oldest desert in the world and, helpfully, also one of the most accessible. The jewel in its crown is the red strip of towering sand dunes on the way to Soussusvlei, a large ephemeral pan, itself set amid red sand dunes that tower 325m above you. The highlight of Namibia and a must as part of a drive through this wonderful country.

Central Kalahari Game Reserve with the San People

The dry heart of the dry south of a dry continent, the Kalahari evokes all kinds of desert images and, above all, remoteness. Standing on one of the few hills watching the sunsets, giraffes walking slowly in the distance in search of water, maybe a black-maned Kalahari lion roaring somewhere in the far distance, all gives a wonderful eerie experience as you’re surrounded by miles and miles of it all.

But it is the interaction with the San People that really makes this experience one not to miss. It is just overwhelming how easily they can survive in this inhospitable landscape, how intensely they dance (and sing!), and above all how incredibly happy they are to be back in their home – they have unfortunately been exited from the area by various governments, and are only able to return with tourists. The enthusiasm is genuine – they are clearly so happy to be there and are enormously keen to share how they live. We found it very emotional and its a real wow experience.

Safari in the Okavango Delta and Kaziinkini Game Reserve

The Okavango Delta is one of the world’s premier wildlife experiences. The combination of the traditional savannah-style safari in the Kazikini (a private concession bordering Moremi) with the water-based, world-famous Okavango Delta creates an environment with extraordinary wildlife density. The result is a far higher chance of seeing predators – lions, leopards, cheetahs and the super rare African wild dogs – than in any other safari destination.

What truly sets it apart, though . . . if you do it right in the Kazikini, you can have an experience that feels remarkably private, immersive and unspoilt, without the crowds or the eye-watering prices associated with places like the Serengeti or Chobe.

It’s rare to find a safari that delivers this level of wildlife, variety and intimacy all at once. Done properly, the Okavango Delta isn’t just an outstanding safari — it’s one of the very best wildlife experiences on the planet.

Self-driving through Bwabwata National Park

Bwabwata National Park is located in the Caprivi Strip, an area that faced continued troubles during the South Western Africa War and Angolan Civil Wars from 1964 to 2002 and with it large amounts of poaching making a bit of a deadzone for tourists and the animals.

But since then, the wildlife has started once again to thrive. Whilst the concentration of wildlife is nothing like that seem in Moremi / Chobe / Okavango / Etosha, the real benefit is the lack of fellow tourists, low prices and the feeling of experiencing something a little different (or at least until the area reclaims its former glory).

We really enjoyed the unusual nature of it, and would very much recommend, if making the trip from Etosha into the wonders of the Okavango etc, driving through the Caprivi route via Divundu rather than the more direct route via Tsumkwe.

Top tips:

#1 There are two parks – the main Bwabwata National Park (Buffalo Park Entrance Gate on google maps) and the Mahango Core Area. If driven this far, it make sense to experience both – the main park has the abandoned village area which makes for being a little spooky at times, and Mahango has the more expansive views. Mahango was our favourite because you could drive very close all the way along the waterline.

#2 Drive yourself – yes you could get a guided tour, but there was something magical taking advantage of the lack of fellow tourists and just doing it yourself. Just remember to have a general idea of what not to do near the Big 5, and how to 4WD drive off-road (especially in sand as there is quite a lot of it).

#3 Best route – we LOVED the main river route along the Mahango area. Its fairly easy to see and the rangers will give you a map at the entrance, but basically turn left about 200m after entering from the north entrance, then follow along the river / road via the Kwetche Picnic Spot until you join the main road again. We enjoyed it so much we drove it 3 times and was the highlight!

#4 Take a boat ride at sunset along the Okavango River – great for seeing the hippos and generally the river life. You can arrange from the White Sands Lodge and was fairly cheap. Bring a few beers for the sunset.

Yeah, don’t go swimming

#5 Where to stay – I’d recommend the White Sands Lodge. Rooms are nice enough, if a little expensive, but it’s the location that more than makes up for it. Right on the water.

#6 Ideally, visit before you go to the Okavango and Moremi. Yes, Bwabwata is a great experience, but its nothing compared to the area to the south and you may be a tad disappointed.

Catching a sight of the super shy dik-dik dear

Driving the Skeleton Coast

The Skeleton Coast is all about driving what the Lonely Planet calls “one of the world’s most inhospitable waterless areas in the world’s oldest desert”, and “the highlight of Namibia”.

I agree that the remote feel is enjoyable, and seeing the various wrecks (some still full ships, others just engine blocks remaining) and the Cape Cross Seal Colony is fun – but I wouldn’t have it as the highlight. Self-driving Etosha National Park and experiencing the The red desert dunes of Sossusvlei are in a different category of wow. And so is the nearby underated Damaraland’s desert landscapes, elephants and ancient rock art.

Definitely worth the visit, but I would suggest only if you are already planning the drive through Damaraland. If not, the route straight up to Etosha and then loop round via Botswana etc makes more sense.